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The blog.

When to go, how to reach, where to stay, what it costs on the ground — written from the valley, checked against sources, dated.

Old Manali's café lane at dusk
Cafés in Manali — Old Manali, Mall Road, Vashisht and the Naggar road
Manali's cafés by area: Old Manali's lane, Mall Road, Vashisht and Jagatsukh. On their menus a cappuccino costs ₹120–200 and momos ₹170–320. Where to go.
Guesthouses above the bridge into Old Manali
Where to stay in Manali — the areas compared
Manali has five different places to sleep: the town round the Mall, Old Manali, Vashisht, the resorts at Prini and Aleo, and the Solang road. Which suits you.
Where to go after Manali — Kasol, Jibhi, Lahaul and Spiti, compared
Where to go after Manali — Kasol, Jibhi, Lahaul and Spiti, compared
The four ways on from Manali: Kasol and the Parvati valley, 75 km; Jibhi and the Tirthan, 90 km; Sissu and Lahaul through the tunnel; Spiti or Leh.
What to pack for Manali, by season
What to pack for Manali, by season
Manali packing by season: layers for cold nights at 2,050 m even in June, rain gear for July and August, real winter kit for Sissu and Solang. What to hire.
Old Manali's café lane at dusk
What to eat in Manali — the local plate, and where it is actually served
The Kullu valley's own food and where a visitor meets it: siddu with ghee, river trout, red rice, dham, the dhabas at Marhi and Jana, and Old Manali's cafés.
What a Manali trip costs on the ground — the honest price sheet
What a Manali trip costs on the ground — the honest price sheet
What Manali costs on the ground: typical bands for paragliding, rafting, skiing, camping, bike hire and guides; what is free; what moves with the season; cash.
Things to do in Manali — 20 that are worth the drive, and what each costs
Things to do in Manali — 20 that are worth the drive, and what each costs
Twenty things to do in Manali sorted by distance from the bus stand, with measured drive times, what each costs on the ground, and which month each is for.
The Rohtang Pass permit — how it works, who needs it, and when you don't
The Rohtang Pass permit — how it works, who needs it, and when you don't
Rohtang Pass permit: online, per vehicle and date; ₹500 plus ₹50 for a car; 800 petrol and 400 diesel vehicles a day, released at 10:00 and 16:00.
Rohtang Pass or the Atal Tunnel — which day to do
Rohtang Pass or the Atal Tunnel — which day to do
Rohtang Pass (3,978 m) needs a permit and opens roughly May to November; the Atal Tunnel needs none, is open all year and puts Sissu an hour away.
Paragliders landing at Solang's meadow
Manali with kids — what works at each age, what to skip, and the altitude question
Manali with children: the park, grove and museum for small ones, the meadow and the snow day for the middle years, the walks for teens; altitude; what to skip.
The bridge in Old Manali
Manali solo — the honest guide to going alone, on a budget or not
Going to Manali alone: the villages where solo travellers stay, the walks that need no guide, getting around without hiring a whole taxi, and what a week costs.
Hadimba temple's pagoda roofs among deodars
Manali or Shimla? An honest comparison for a first hill trip
Manali or Shimla for a first hill trip: which has the snow, which is closer, which suits families, couples and trekkers, whether to do both. Honestly.
The Parvati river running through pine forest at Kasol
Manali or Kasol? Two valleys, two kinds of trip, and how to do both
Manali or Kasol: snow, passes and day trips against the river, walks and cafés. They are 75 km and about 121 min apart by road. Which suits whom, and both.
Carrying apples in an orchard at Vashisht
Manali in September — the rain leaves, the treks come back, nobody has arrived yet
Manali in September: the monsoon drains away, days around 24 °C, the pass and the tunnel open, the treks in their best weeks, the valley empty before October.
Manali in October — the month we would send a first visit
Manali in October — the month we would send a first visit
Manali in October: the year's clearest skies, days around 22 °C, the pass open until mid-November, the poplars turning, the treks' last clear weeks, no crowd.
Monsoon mist through grass and deodars near Manali
Manali in the monsoon — what July and August are really like, and who they suit
Manali in July and August: 201.5 mm and 217 mm of rain, slides that close the high roads, cloud on the meadows — and a green, empty, cheap valley.
Hadimba temple's pagoda roofs among deodars
Manali in May — the pass opens, the valley fills, and the first half is the secret
Manali in May: days around 25 °C, the pass opening with deep snow at the top, the Hadimba festival, rhododendron in the forests — and the crowd from mid-month.
Apple blossom against the sky in a Manali orchard
Manali in March and April — blossom below, snow above, and nobody here
Manali in spring: days around 17 °C in March and 21 °C in April, orchards in flower, the high meadows white, the pass shut, the tunnel open. The quiet season.
Manali in June — everything open, everyone here, and how to still enjoy it
Manali in June — everything open, everyone here, and how to still enjoy it
Manali in June: days around 26 °C, the pass open with snow at the roadside, flying and rafting at full tilt, the treks starting — and the year's fullest weeks.
Manali in January and February — the real winter, and how to use it
Manali in January and February — the real winter, and how to use it
Manali's deepest winter: days around 10 °C, nights below freezing, snow on the Solang road and at Sissu, ski slopes when it holds, the Carnival on the Mall.
Manali in December — where the snow actually is, and how to plan for it
Manali in December — where the snow actually is, and how to plan for it
Manali in December: days around 13 °C, nights near freezing, snow in the town some weeks and reliable snow an hour away at Sissu. Roads, closures, packing.
A Manali honeymoon, honestly — where to stay, what to skip, which month
A Manali honeymoon, honestly — where to stay, what to skip, which month
Manali for a honeymoon without the package: the areas that suit two, the days that work slowly, the quiet months, what to skip. Plan around the room.
Ten mistakes people make on a first trip to Manali
Ten mistakes people make on a first trip to Manali
Snow in the town in December, Rohtang without a permit, a May weekend from Delhi, Lahaul as a day trip. Ten things that go wrong on a first trip, and the fixes.
The Dussehra procession on the Dhalpur maidan at Kullu
Kullu Dussehra from Manali — the valley's biggest week, and how to see it
Kullu Dussehra begins the day Dussehra ends elsewhere and runs seven days at Kullu, 40 km from Manali, with the valley's village deities. When and how.
The terminal at Bhuntar airport
How to reach Manali
Manali by overnight bus from Delhi, 513 km; by car from Chandigarh, 264 km; by air to Bhuntar, 49 km away; by rail via Chandigarh. Each compared.
How many days do you need in Manali? Two, three, four, five and seven, compared
How many days do you need in Manali? Two, three, four, five and seven, compared
How many days Manali needs depends on one question — the pass, a trek, or neither. What two, three, four, five and seven nights each buy, with a plan for each.
The highway along a cliff in monsoon mist
Delhi to Manali by road — the 513 km, stop by stop
Delhi to Manali is 513 km through Chandigarh, Bilaspur, Mandi and the Aut tunnel. When to leave, where to eat, the overnight bus, the last hours up the Beas.
Apple blossom against the sky in a Manali orchard
The best time to visit Manali, month by month
Manali month by month: when Rohtang opens, when the snow is reliable, when the roads close, when it is empty. IMD temperatures and what each season is for.
Traditional timber-and-stone houses on the hillside at Jibhi
Things to do in Tirthan valley and Jibhi — 10, by distance from Banjar
Ten things to do in Tirthan valley and Jibhi by measured drive time: the park centre, Chehni Kothi, Gushaini, Jibhi's waterfall, Shoja, Jalori and Serolsar.
Serolsar Lake, a small round lake on the ridge above Jalori Pass
Offbeat places around Banjar, Jibhi and Tirthan — 9 beyond the usual stops
Nine offbeat places around Banjar, Jibhi and the Tirthan valley, from a stone watchtower to a ridge lake, each with measured drive times and walks.
Wooden houses on the wooded hillside at Jibhi
Where to stay in the Tirthan valley — Jibhi, Shoja, Gushaini, Nagini, Sharchi and Banjar, honestly compared
The Tirthan valley's villages compared for a stay: Jibhi's cafés and the pass road, Gushaini's homestays on the river, Shoja for the walks, Sharchi for quiet.
The main market street of Banjar with the hills behind
What a Tirthan valley trip costs on the ground — the honest price sheet
The Tirthan valley's prices as bands with the date checked: homestays and guesthouses, taxis from Aut and to Jalori, the park permit and guide, trout, the bus.
A wooden bridge over the Jibhi stream in the forest
Jibhi or the Tirthan valley? The same valley, two sides — which to sleep on, and how to have both
Jibhi and the Tirthan are one valley with two sides half an hour apart: Jibhi's cafés and the Jalori road, Gushaini's homestays and the park. Who each suits.
Forested ridges falling away below Jalori Pass
Jalori Pass, Serolsar lake and Raghupur Fort — the pass day, walk by walk
The pass day from Banjar and Jibhi: the road to Jalori, the ridge walk to Serolsar lake, the climb to Raghupur Fort, the dhabas, a tent at the top.
The welcome gate over the valley road at Larji
How to reach the Tirthan valley — from Delhi, Chandigarh, Manali and the airport at Bhuntar, by bus, car and taxi
Every way into the Tirthan valley: the turn at Aut on the Kullu highway, the night bus from Delhi, Chandigarh by car, Bhuntar's airport 42 km away, Manali.
A meadow with snow peaks inside the Great Himalayan National Park
The Great Himalayan National Park from the Tirthan side — permits, the ecozone, the gate at Rolla, and what the park asks of a visitor
How the Great Himalayan National Park works from the Tirthan valley: the permit and guide at Sai Ropa, the ecozone paths from Gushaini, the gate at Rolla.
Autumn trees reflected in Serolsar lake
The best time to visit the Tirthan valley and Jibhi — month by month, with the IMD numbers
When to go to the Tirthan valley and Jibhi: October for the pass and the clear river, April to June for green and rhododendron, monsoon closures, winter snow.
The Parvati river running past Kasol through pine forest
Things to do in Kasol — 11 in the Parvati valley, by distance
Eleven things to do in Kasol by measured drive time: Chalal, Manikaran's springs, Malana, Tosh, Kalga and the Kheerganga walk, with walkers' times.
Apple trees and wooden houses at Pulga in the Parvati valley
Offbeat places near Kasol — 7 beyond the main street
Seven offbeat places near Kasol in the Parvati valley, from the bridge road at Choj to roadless villages above Barshaini, with measured drive times and walks.
The Kasol footbridge seen from the riverbank below
Where to stay in Kasol — the market, Chalal, Choj, Tosh and the hamlets compared
Kasol has five kinds of bed: the market street, Chalal over the bridge, Choj on the river, the villages above Barshaini, the camps at Kheerganga. Compared.
The footbridge at Kasol over the Parvati
What a Kasol trip costs on the ground — the honest price sheet
The Parvati valley's prices as bands with the date checked: rooms in Kasol and Chalal, taxis to Barshaini and Malana, Kheerganga's camps, the bus, what is free.
Malana village among terraced fields
Malana's rules for visitors — what they are, why they matter, and how to keep them
Malana, up its own gorge from Jari, tolerates visitors on its terms: no touching the temple or the people, no entering houses, stay on the path. The rules, why.
The Parvati gorge on the path to Kheerganga
The Kheerganga trek, honestly — the path, the night, the pool, and when not to go
Kheerganga from Barshaini: the path through Nakthan and Rudranag, five to six hours up and three to four down, the camps, the pool, the months and the costs.
The Parvati valley near Kasol
Kasol or Manali? The Parvati valley's case, honestly made, and when to choose the Beas
Kasol and Manali are two hours apart and two different trips: walks, one road and a river against drives, a town and a pass. Who each suits; the plan for both.
The valley road above Bhuntar with the Beas below
How to reach Kasol
Kasol by overnight bus from Delhi to Bhuntar, 494 km; by car from Chandigarh, 245 km; by air to Bhuntar, 32 km away; from Manali in two hours. Compared.
Snow peaks above the houses of Kasol under a clear sky
The best time to visit Kasol, month by month
Best time for Kasol: October for clear skies and dry paths, April for green and quiet, May and June busy and warm. July and August are the wettest months.
The snow-covered Dhauladhar range glowing pink at dusk above the town of Dharamshala
Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj in winter — where the snow falls, and what to do
Dharamshala in winter, from IMD normals: snow and sleet in upper McLeod Ganj, Bhagsu and Naddi, little in the lower town; what is open, Triund, what to pack.
The open valley view from Naddi with the Dhauladhar range beyond
Offbeat places near Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj — 9 beyond the main street
Nine offbeat places near Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj, from a hillside cricket ground to a quiet lake and an old fort, each with measured drive times.
McLeod Ganj rooftops above the valley
What a Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj trip costs
Typical prices for a McLeod Ganj trip: guesthouse rooms, budget stays in Dharamkot, taxis to Naddi and Kangra Fort, a Triund porter, and buses.
A shrine at the top of the Triund ridge
The Triund trek — a complete guide
Everything for the Triund climb from McLeod Ganj: distance, timing, tea stalls, permits, what to carry, and when the trail is at its driest and clearest.
Namgyal Monastery, the Dalai Lama's temple complex
Things to do in Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj — 13 worth the drive, and what each costs
Thirteen things to do in Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj sorted by distance from the Mall, with measured drive times, what each costs, and when to go.
Namgyal Monastery in McLeod Ganj
McLeod Ganj or Dharamshala town — where should you stay?
McLeod Ganj has the temple, the Mall and the Triund trailhead. Dharamshala town is the district headquarters. Here's the real difference, and which one to book.
McLeod Ganj on its ridge above the Kangra valley
How to reach Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj
Getting to Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj by air via Gaggal, by rail via Pathankot, or by road from Delhi, Chandigarh, Shimla and Manali, with real times.
The Dhauladhar range seen from Triund in clear autumn weather
The best time to visit Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj, month by month
Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj month by month: when the Triund trail is clear, when the monsoon shuts it down, and when the Dhauladhar is visible from town.
Kullu town on the bank of the Beas with wooded hills behind it
Things to do in Kullu — 12 in and around the town, by distance
Twelve things to do in Kullu by measured drive time: the Raghunath temple, Dhalpur, rafting at Pirdi, Bijli Mahadev, Bajaura, Naggar, Jana Falls and Pandoh.
Kullu town on the bank of the Beas with wooded hills behind it
The best time to visit Kullu — month by month, from the IMD record
When to visit Kullu, from Bhuntar's IMD record: spring and autumn for clear walks, Dussehra in October, the July–August rain, and winter nights near freezing.
Kullu town on the bank of the Beas with wooded hills behind it
Cafés in Kullu and Bhuntar — eggless bakeries, Italian and coffee on the highway
Cafés and bakeries in Kullu and Bhuntar: Valentino's, Sapna Bakers, Belle Vie and Valley Brew, with menus, hours, eggless and veg options and what they cost.
The tall wooden staff at Bijli Mahadev temple
Hidden places near Kullu and Manali — 10 beyond the usual list
Ten places near Kullu and Manali that the usual circuit skips: old temples, a ridge walk, a gorge village and a river camp, each with measured drive times.
Kullu town on the bank of the Beas
The Kullu shawl — what the patterns mean, what the wool costs, and how to buy one in the valley
What makes a Kullu shawl: the geometric border, the wool it is woven in, what each kind costs in the valley as of September 2026, and how to tell a handloom.
The carved wooden front of the temple at Bhekhli above Kullu
The temples of the Kullu valley — stone, wood and a god who rules a district
The Kullu valley's temples in one place: Raghunath in the town, the stone temple at Bajaura, the ridge shrine at Bijli Mahadev and the carved wood at Bhekhli.
Kullu town on the Beas with wooded hills behind it
Kullu or Manali — which one to sleep in, and what each is actually good at
Kullu or Manali as a base: 40 km and about 49 minutes apart. Manali for snow, cafés and a first visit; Kullu for temples, the airport and a working town.
The main procession at Kullu Dussehra
Kullu Dussehra — what it is, what happens on each of the seven days, and how to be there
Kullu's Dussehra starts when the rest of India's ends and runs seven days at Dhalpur: what happens, how the town works that week, where to stay and the manners.
The Beas and the Parvati meeting at Bhuntar, with the valley road beside them
How to reach Kullu — the airport at Bhuntar, the buses, and the road up the valley
Reaching Kullu: the airport at Bhuntar 11 km away, buses from Chandigarh, Delhi and Manali, the railhead at Joginder Nagar, and which option is worth taking.
Kibber's flat-roofed houses on a snow-covered slope in Spiti
Spiti in winter — the Kinnaur road, the cold, and what stays open
Spiti in winter: only the Shimla–Kinnaur road stays open while Kunzum is shut for months, January nights reach −30 °C at Kaza, and the trip needs slow days.
The white houses of Hikkim village on a bare high slope in Spiti, under a lit brown mountainside
Hikkim, Komic and Langza — Spiti's high villages above Kaza
Above Kaza at 4,330–4,520 m: Hikkim's post office, Komic and the Tangyud gompa, Langza under the Princess Mountain. What Wikipedia says, and where it disagrees.
Chandratal, a curved blue lake below bare brown and grey scree slopes in Lahaul, under a blue sky
Chandratal — the moon lake below Kunzum
Chandratal, the moon lake at about 4,300 m below Kunzum: a 12 km side road near Batal, the last 1 km on foot, open late May to early October. A Ramsar site.
Chicham Bridge over the gorge near Kibber
Offbeat places near Kaza — 6 beyond Key Monastery
Six offbeat places near Kaza in Spiti, from a fort monastery on a canyon rim to the Pin valley, with measured drive times from Kaza for each.
Key Monastery above the Spiti River
Things to do in Kaza — 9 worth the drive, and what each costs
Nine things to do in Kaza and the Spiti circuit, sorted by distance from town, with measured drive times, what each costs, and when to visit.
Dhankar Monastery on its cliff-edge spur
The monasteries of Spiti — a guide to Kaza's gompas
A guide to Kaza's fort monasteries — Key, Dhankar, Tangyud, Kungri and Lhalung — their founders, their settings, and which one to see first.
Key Monastery above the Spiti valley
How to reach Kaza — two roads, two very different seasons
Getting to Kaza via Manali over Kunzum La (summer only) or via Shimla and Kinnaur on NH505 (open most of the year) — and which route to pick.
Kibber village in summer
The best time to visit Kaza and the Spiti valley
Kaza and the Spiti valley by season: when the Manali road opens, when it closes for winter, and why the visiting window is shorter than it looks.

Across the Himalayas

A bright rangoli of red flowers and leaves on the floor, ringed with small lit clay lamps in the dark
Deepavali before sunrise — the south begins Diwali at dawn
In Tamil Nadu, Deepavali is kept on Naraka Chaturdashi with an oil bath before dawn; Goa burns Narkasur effigies in the dark. In 2026 it falls on 8 November.
The turquoise water of Suraj Tal below bare rock slopes under a blue sky
Suraj Tal and Baralacha La — the lake below the pass where four roads meet
Suraj Tal, India's third-highest lake, lies below the 4,890 m Baralacha La on the Manali–Leh road, 65 km from Keylong, and is closed by snow November to April.
Two whitewashed chortens with prayer flags on Kunzum Pass under a deep blue sky
Kunzum Pass (Kunzum La) — the gate between Lahaul and Spiti, and when it is open
Kunzum La, 4,551 m, joins Lahaul and Spiti: 122 km from Manali, 79 km from Kaza, open roughly June to October, with the Chandratal trek from the top.
Kareri Lake in its bowl below a rocky ridge with a rose-lit peak behind
Kareri Lake — the Dhauladhar lake trek above Dharamshala, and the Seven Lake trek
Kareri Lake at 2,934 m, a 13 km trek from Kareri village above Dharamshala: when it freezes, what the path is like, and the Seven Lake trek beyond.
Snow-dusted rocky slopes rising to the Indrahar Pass in the Dhauladhar
Indrahar Pass trek — from McLeod Ganj over Triund to the Chamba border at 4,342 m
The Indrahar Pass trek from McLeod Ganj via Triund and Lahesh Caves: the stages with the times Wikipedia gives, the 4,342 m top and the April–October season.
A green slope with fir forest and snow peaks beyond in the Great Himalayan National Park
Great Himalayan National Park — the UNESCO park above Tirthan, Sainj and the Banjar valley
The Great Himalayan National Park, a UNESCO site since 2014: where it is, what lives in it, permits at Sai Ropa, and the Tirthan and Sainj valleys it guards.
The tall timber-and-stone tower of Gondhla Fort rising against a blue sky
Gondhla — the seven-storey tower fort of the Thakurs of Lahaul
Gondhla Fort, a seven-storey Kathkuni tower at 3,160 m, 29 min from Keylong: the Thakurs of Lahaul, Roerich's paintings, and the monastery beside it.
Glazed Andretta pottery bowls, jugs and teapots displayed on a table
Andretta — the artists' village near Palampur, Norah Richards, Sobha Singh and the pottery
Andretta, 19 min from Palampur: the artists' colony begun by Norah Richards in 1924, Sobha Singh's gallery, and the pottery society that still teaches potters.
A large flock of Amur falcons wheeling in a grey sky over the Doyang reservoir region of Nagaland
Pangti — the Naga village whose name flew to Africa on a falcon
In 2013 a satellite-tagged Amur falcon named Pangti flew from a Naga village to Kenya in 13 days. How Pangti went from trapping falcons to protecting them.
The Tehri reservoir, a long green lake between forested hills, with the dam at its edge
Tehri — the lake in the hills that works like a battery
Tehri's pumped-storage plant stores spare power as water: it pumps the Bhagirathi up into the Tehri lake, then lets it fall back through turbines when needed.
The front of Guwahati railway station at Paltan Bazar, with blue auto-rickshaws and people outside its red-roofed entrance
How to reach Meghalaya and Nagaland from Delhi — Guwahati, Dimapur, Shillong airport and the hill roads
Delhi to Shillong, Cherrapunji and Kohima: flights and trains to Guwahati and Dimapur, hill road times in km, Shillong airport and the Nagaland ILP.
A white bowl of dark pork stew cooked with fermented soybeans on a table beside a spoon and fork
Food of Meghalaya and Nagaland — jadoh, tungrymbai, smoked pork with axone and fermented bamboo shoot
What to eat in Meghalaya and Nagaland: jadoh, tungrymbai, dohkhlieh, smoked pork with axone, fermented bamboo shoot, anishi and the rice drinks zutho, thuthse.
Naga dancers in feathered headdresses leaping into the air beside a log drum on a dusty festival ground under a blue sky
Festivals in Nagaland and Meghalaya by month — the Hornbill Festival, Sekrenyi, Wangala, Behdienkhlam and the 2026 Cherry Blossom Festival
Nagaland and Meghalaya festivals by month from the state tourism sites: Hornbill, Sekrenyi, Tuluni, Wangala, Behdienkhlam and the 2026 Cherry Blossom Festival.
A wide view over the town of Shillong in a green valley under a deep blue sky with large white clouds
Best time to visit Meghalaya and Nagaland — month by month, with India Meteorological Department weather for Shillong, Cherrapunji and Kohima
Meghalaya and Nagaland month by month: IMD highs, lows and rain for Shillong, Cherrapunji and Kohima, plus the monsoon, cherry blossom and Hornbill.
Two blue steam locomotives of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway standing side by side on a hillside track
How to reach Sikkim and Darjeeling from Delhi — New Jalpaiguri, Bagdogra and the hill road to Gangtok
Delhi to Gangtok and Darjeeling: the railhead at New Jalpaiguri, Bagdogra airport, hill road times in km, the toy train, Pakyong airport and the permit rules.
A bowl of thukpa, a noodle soup with shredded meat and herbs, with a spoon resting in it
Food of Sikkim and Darjeeling — momo, thukpa, churpi, sel roti and the fermented foods of the Eastern Himalaya
What to eat in Sikkim and Darjeeling: momos and thukpa, churpi cheese, sel roti, gundruk and kinema, and tongba, the millet drink — with what Wikipedia records.
The wide brick courtyard of Rumtek Monastery with its colonnaded white and red monastery building behind, among tall trees
Festivals in Sikkim and Darjeeling by month — Losoong, Losar, Pang Lhabsol, Kagyed, Dashain and the tourism festivals
Sikkim and Darjeeling festivals by month from the Sikkim Tourism site: Losoong, Losar, Maghey Sankranti, Pang Lhabsol, Kagyed, Dashain and tourism festivals.
A snow-covered range of peaks on the horizon above green forested hills and a hillside road, under a clear blue sky
Best time to visit Sikkim and Darjeeling — month by month, with India Meteorological Department weather for Gangtok and Darjeeling
Sikkim and Darjeeling month by month: IMD highs, lows and rain at Gangtok and Darjeeling, the official spring and autumn windows, the monsoon and snow.
A narrow paved road winding along a barren valley of brown and grey mountains under a blue sky with scattered clouds
How to reach Kashmir and Ladakh from Delhi — the train to Katra and on to Srinagar, flights, and the two highways to Leh
Delhi to Srinagar and Leh: the Katra train and the Vande Bharat on to Srinagar, flights, road distances in km, and the Manali and Srinagar highways to Leh.
A bowl of thukpa, a noodle soup with flat noodles, green leaves and slices of carrot, with a spoon, on a wooden table
Food of Ladakh — thukpa, skyu, tsampa and gurgur cha, the butter tea
What to eat in Ladakh: thukpa and momos, skyu and chutagi, tsampa, Ladakhi pulao and tigmo, with gurgur cha, the salted butter tea, and sweet cha ngarmo.
A wazwan meal laid out on a metal tray, with rice, meat dishes, a bowl of yellow gravy with meatballs and small dishes of sauce
Food of Kashmir — the wazwan feast, kahwa and noon chai, and what else the valley eats
What to eat in Kashmir: the multi-course wazwan with rogan josh and gushtaba, kahwa with saffron, pink noon chai, haakh and rice, nadur and Mushk Budji rice.
A masked dancer in a white mask with a flower crown, a red and white striped robe and yellow skirt at a monastery festival
Festivals in Ladakh and Kashmir by month — Hemis, Dosmoche, Losar, the Tulip Festival and Kheer Bhawani
Ladakh festivals by month from the Leh district site — Spituk, Dosmoche, Hemis, Thiksey — plus Losar, the Srinagar Tulip Festival and the Kheer Bhawani mela.
Boats on the still water of Dal Lake with the snow-covered Pir Panjal peaks and low cloud behind
Best time to visit Kashmir and Ladakh — month by month, with India Meteorological Department weather for five stations
Kashmir and Ladakh month by month: IMD highs, nights and precipitation for Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam, Leh and Katra, with snow, the Leh roads and festivals.
A blue sleeper-class train standing at a platform beside a yellow Hindi and English station board reading Dehradun
How to reach Uttarakhand from Delhi — road distances, the railheads at Haridwar, Dehradun and Kathgodam, and the two airports
Delhi to Uttarakhand by road in km for Haridwar, Dehradun, Nainital, Almora and Badrinath, plus the railheads at Haridwar, Dehradun, Kathgodam and the airports.
A steel tray holding a dark round flatbread, fried potato pieces, two chutneys, a slice of lime and a cup of pink drink
Food of Uttarakhand — what to eat in Kumaon and Garhwal, from bal mithai and singori to kafuli, chainsoo and aloo ke gutke
What to eat in Uttarakhand: bal mithai and singori from Almora and Tehri, kafuli, chainsoo, bhatt ki churkani, aloo ke gutke and the millet and pulse dishes.
Skiers climbing a snow slope at Narkanda below a line of fir trees
Does Himachal get snow in November? Where it snows, and where it does not yet
Snow in Himachal in November: almost none in Shimla, the first falls at Narkanda and Dalhousie, the high valleys already white, and Rohtang closing.
Nako village and its small green lake on a bare mountain slope in Kinnaur
Do you need a permit for Spiti or Kinnaur? What Indians and foreign visitors must carry
Spiti and Kinnaur permits: Indian citizens have not needed an Inner Line Permit since 1992; foreigners need a Protected Area Permit. The official rules.
Crowds on the steps of the Haridwar ghats at dusk, with lit shrines along the bank and the Ganga in the foreground
Festivals in Uttarakhand by month — Phool Dei, Harela, Nanda Devi Mahotsav, the 12-year Raj Jat and Ganga Dussehra
Uttarakhand festivals by month from the state tourism site: Phool Dei, Uttarayani, Harela, Nanda Devi Mahotsav, the 12-year Raj Jat and Ganga Dussehra.
A narrow-gauge train at Summer Hill station on the Kalka–Shimla Railway
Cheapest way to reach Shimla from Delhi — bus, train and taxi compared
Delhi to Shimla by state bus, by train to Kalka and on, or by taxi: the distances and times, and where to read the official fares for your date.
The green Valley of Flowers between steep forested slopes, with snow peaks and white clouds at its head
Best time to visit Uttarakhand — month by month, with India Meteorological Department weather for five hill towns
Uttarakhand month by month: IMD highs, lows and rain at Mussoorie, Nainital, Mukteshwar, Joshimath and Tehri, plus snow, the Char Dham season and the monsoon.
A narrow-gauge train waiting at Summer Hill station on the Kalka–Shimla Railway, among deodars
How to reach Himachal from Delhi and Chandigarh — by train, bus and flight
Himachal from Delhi and Chandigarh by road, rail and air: distances and drive times to 16 hubs, the Kalka–Shimla and Kangra Valley trains, and the airports.
Steamed stuffed siddu buns on a plate with small bowls of ghee and chutney
Himachali food guide — siddu, dham, babru, chha gosht, Chamba chukh and the trout
The dishes of Himachal and where they come from: dham feasts, siddu buns, babru, sepu badi, chha gosht, Chamba chukh and the Kullu trout, from open sources.
Stacks of woollen Himachali caps with green velvet bands on shelves in a shop
Himachali crafts — Kullu shawls, Kangra painting, Chamba rumal, the Himachali cap and Kangra tea
Himachal's crafts and where they come from: Kullu shawls, Kangra painting, Chamba rumal, the Himachali cap and Kangra tea, with links to a shop that has some.
The main procession at Kullu Dussehra, with deities in palanquins and a crowd on the Dhalpur ground
Fairs and festivals of Himachal by month — Kullu Dussehra, Minjar, Lavi, Phulaich and more
Himachal's fairs by month: Winter Carnival, Mandi Shivratri, Shoolini, Minjar, Phulaich, Kullu Dussehra and Lavi, with the dates the state's tourism site gives.
Solang valley near Manali under deep winter snow
Best time to visit Himachal, month by month — snow, monsoon and the roads that open
Himachal month by month: when it snows in Shimla and Manali, when the monsoon peaks, when the Spiti and Lahaul roads open, with IMD rainfall.
Two women in festive clothes holding up a decorated sieve and a puja plate towards the night sky
Karva Chauth — the moon through a sieve, and the day that leads to it
Karva Chauth from sargi before dawn to the moon through a sieve: the fast, the karva pots, the circle of thalis and the arghya. In 2026 it falls on 29 October.
A painted temple cloth with Krishna in the middle, women dancing around him and a full moon in a night sky
Sharad Purnima — one full moon, five names
Kojagari, Kojagiri, Kumar Purnima, Sharad Purnima and Kojagrat: one full moon of Ashvin, five names, and what each region does that night. Dates for 2026.
Snow-covered ridges and peaks of the Garhwal Himalaya under a grey sky, seen from the summit of Kedarkantha
Winter treks in Uttarakhand — Chandrashila, Kedarkantha and Dayara Bugyal, and which treks wait for spring
Winter treks in Uttarakhand, December to February: Chandrashila above Chopta, Kedarkantha near Sankri, Dayara Bugyal, and why Har Ki Dun waits for spring.
Manipuri polo players with their sticks and ponies outside a timber building, photographed in 1875
Polo — the British learned the game from Manipur
The word polo comes from Manipur, where it named the wooden ball. British tea planters learned the game from Manipuris and set up a club at Silchar in 1859.
The Dhauladhar range rising behind the Triund campsite above McLeod Ganj
Treks in Himachal by length and month — an hour's walk to a five-day crossing
Himachal treks by how long they take and which months they open: short walks, Triund in a day, Kheerganga overnight, Bhrigu, Beas Kund and Sar Pass.
Skiers climbing a snow slope at Narkanda below a line of fir trees
Skiing in Himachal — Solang, Narkanda and Kufri, and when the snow holds
Where to ski in Himachal: Solang above Manali, Narkanda and Kufri above Shimla, the state institute's courses, and the January–February snow.
Prashar Lake with its pagoda-style temple
Lakes of Himachal — 12, from the ones you drive to the ones you walk to
Twelve lakes of Himachal by how you reach them: Khajjiar, Rewalsar and Renuka by road, Prashar near it, Serolsar and Bhrigu on foot, Chandratal high up.
The gurdwara building at Manikaran over the Parvati, where the hot springs rise
Hot springs of Himachal — Manikaran, Vashisht, Kheerganga and Tattapani
Himachal's hot springs: Manikaran's gurdwara tanks, the free baths at Vashisht, the pool at the top of the Kheerganga walk, and Tattapani on the Sutlej.
Bhulla Tal, a small green lake with a wooden footbridge, pine trees and cottages on the slope behind in evening light
Weekend getaways from Delhi — hill towns in Uttarakhand and Himachal, by distance, with a plan for each
Weekend trips from Delhi to the hills by road distance: Rishikesh, Mussoorie, Lansdowne, Nainital, Kasauli, Shimla, Tirthan, Kasol and Manali, each with a plan.
A worker walks a steel member of the Chenab Bridge arch high above the misty gorge, in 2016
Chenab Rail Bridge — take away a pier and the train still runs
The Chenab Rail Bridge in Jammu and Kashmir stands 359 m above the river. Railways says it stays open at 30 km/h even if one pier or trestle is removed.
Two white ice stupas on the brown valley floor near Phyang in Ladakh, bare mountains behind
Ice stupas — how Ladakh grows its own glacier for spring
Ladakh's ice stupas freeze winter stream water into cones of ice that melt slowly into spring, when fields need water and streams run low. How they work.
Roopkund, a small green glacial lake in a bowl of grey scree and old snow
Roopkund's skeletons — the DNA says they did not die together
The Roopkund skeletons were long blamed on one hailstorm. DNA from 38 of them, read in 2019, found three groups who died about 1,000 years apart.
The green summit sign at Khardung La in Ladakh, with the bare brown ridge and snow behind it
Khardung La's sign says 18,380 ft — the pass is 17,582 ft
The famous sign at Khardung La in Ladakh says 18,380 ft and the world's highest road. GPS surveys give 5,359 m (17,582 ft); higher roads now cross Ladakh.
A phulkari shawl from Punjab folded to show both faces: blue and turquoise silk on the left, the reverse with small stitches on the right
Phulkari — the Punjab embroidery that is worked from the back
Phulkari is Punjab's folk embroidery: silk darned from the back of coarse khaddar, counted with no stencil. Its history, its songs, and phulkari versus bagh.
Loktak Lake in Manipur seen from a plane window, dotted with green floating islands and rings of phumdi
Loktak Lake and Keibul Lamjao — the national park that floats
Keibul Lamjao on Loktak Lake, Manipur, is called the only floating national park: phumdi mats of grass and soil, 80% underwater, home of the sangai deer.
Shelves of Jaipur blue pottery jars and vases in blue, turquoise, yellow and green patterns in a Jaipur shop
Jaipur blue pottery — the pottery made without potter's clay
Jaipur blue pottery uses no potter's clay: quartz, glass, multani mitti and gum, fired once at low heat. How it is made, how it nearly vanished, who saved it.

Photographs by Wikimedia Commons contributors (CC0, CC BY, CC BY-SA), resized; each picture is credited on its own page.