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ArticleVerified 2026-10-23

Spiti in winter — the Kinnaur road, the cold, and what stays open

Spiti in winter: only the Shimla–Kinnaur road stays open while Kunzum is shut for months, January nights reach −30 °C at Kaza, and the trip needs slow days.

One road in, and it is the long one

In summer most people reach Kaza from Manali over Kunzum Pass. In winter that road does not exist. Kunzum, at about 15,000 ft, is normally open only from June or July to October or November, and Wikipedia puts the Manali–Kaza road's closure at seven winter months a year. The road that stays open is the other one: from Shimla up the Sutlej through Kinnaur, past Pooh and Nako, to Tabo and Kaza. Wikipedia describes that Kaza–Pooh–Tabo–Shimla route as open the whole year, which in practice means open except after heavy snow or a landslide.

That decides everything else about a winter trip: it is long, it is slow, and the days in Spiti are the reward at the end of it, not the whole holiday.

How long the road takes

From Shimla, Kaza is about 406 km and 669 min of driving on our measured routing in clear conditions; from Kalpa, about 212 km; from Tabo, the last stage, about 47 km and 67 min. Nobody does it in one go. The usual winter pattern is three driving days up: a night at Sarahan or Narkanda, a night in Kinnaur at Kalpa or Sangla, then a night at Nako or Tabo before Kaza. Going up in stages also helps the body with the height: Kaza sits at 3,650 m, and arriving slowly is the sensible way to get there.

Plan a spare day each way. Snow on the road, a slide in the Kinnaur gorges or a closed stretch while it is cleared can hold you for a day, and the light goes early.

The cold

Kaza's January minimum reaches −30 °C, the coldest point of its year on the only published figures for the town. Days can be bright and the sun strong on the snow; nights are severe. Ask every place you book whether the room is heated and how water is supplied in the hard cold. Bring a down jacket, thermal layers, insulated boots, gloves, a hat that covers the ears, sunglasses for the glare and lip and skin protection for the dry air.

What is open, and what winter gives you

Kaza town keeps more open in winter than the villages around it. Book a room ahead, confirm by phone that it is open and heated, and expect simple food. The monasteries stand whatever the season; ask locally about visiting hours: Key Monastery above the valley, Dhankar on its ridge, and Tabo on the road in. In the high villages such as Kibber, whether you can stay depends on the family; ask in Kaza before setting off.

What winter gives back is the valley under snow, the quiet, and the people who live there through it. At Nako, the lake beside the village freezes over in the winter months, and Wikipedia notes that people skate on it. The Kibber sanctuary is snow-leopard country; if seeing one is the reason for the trip, go with a local guide and accept that sightings are never promised.

Who it is for

A winter Spiti trip suits people who want the empty, frozen version of the valley and do not mind cold, simple rooms and changeable roads. It does not suit a short holiday, anyone with heart or lung trouble at height without a doctor's advice, or a plan with no spare days. For the classic season and both roads open, see the best time to visit Kaza; the full set of routes is in how to reach Kaza, and the places themselves in things to do in Kaza and the monasteries of Spiti.

Places around Kaza

The Kaza guide →
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Questions people ask

Can you go to Spiti in winter?

Yes, by one road. Wikipedia notes the Shimla–Kinnaur–Tabo–Kaza route is open the whole year, while the Manali–Kaza road over Kunzum Pass closes for seven winter months. Expect closures after heavy snow or landslides, short days, and far fewer guesthouses open than in summer.

How cold is Spiti in winter?

Very cold. Kaza sits at 3,650 m and its January minimum reaches −30 °C, the coldest point of its year. Water freezes in pipes, and guesthouses that stay open heat one room with a stove. Pack for serious cold: down jacket, thermals, insulated boots, gloves and a warm hat.

Is the Manali to Kaza road open in winter?

No. The road crosses Kunzum Pass at about 15,000 ft, which is normally open only from June or July to October or November, depending on the weather and the Border Roads Organisation's clearing. In winter the only way into Spiti is the long road through Kinnaur from Shimla.

How many days do you need for Spiti in winter?

At least a week from Shimla. Kaza is about 406 km by road through Kinnaur, a drive of two or three days with nights at Sarahan, Kalpa or Sangla and at Nako or Tabo on the way. Add two or three days in Spiti and spare days for snow on the road.