
Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj
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Dharamshala is the district town; McLeod Ganj, a short drive up the hill, is where almost everyone actually stays. The two run together in practice — a single taxi ride connects them — but the guide below treats McLeod Ganj as the base, since that is where the temple, the cafés and the Triund trailhead are.
The town works on two different clocks. There is the Tibetan settlement: monks in maroon at the Tsuglagkhang complex, the smell of incense and momos on the same street, prayer flags over the Mall, the workshops at Norbulingka Institute down in Sidhpur. And there is the trekking town: cheap gear rental, backpacker cafés, and a trail up to Triund that runs through Dharamkot. It fills with day-trippers by mid-morning. By golden hour it empties out, right when the Dhauladhar range turns the colour that gets sold as postcards below. Neither version of the town is the "real" one.
Beyond the two towns: Bhagsu Falls and the viewpoint at Naddi, a short drive out; and further afield, a day trip apiece to Kangra Fort, the largest fort in the Himalayas, and Chamunda Devi Mandir, one of the region's most visited Shakti temples.
Photos: Bana1989 (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Rickard Törnblad (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Dhruvaeng (CC BY-SA 4.0) — via Wikimedia Commons, resized.
Places worth the drive
On the map
Open the Dharamshala map →The places a Dharamshala day reaches, with the road time from town. Each opens on the map with its plans and pages beside it.
Before you go
All articles →Questions people ask
Do I stay in Dharamshala or McLeod Ganj?
McLeod Ganj, for almost everyone — it's where the temple, the cafés, the Triund trailhead and most of the guesthouses are. Dharamshala town, a short drive downhill, is the district headquarters, with more government offices than reasons for a visitor to stay overnight there.
How hard is the Triund trek?
It's a real, steady climb from McLeod Ganj on foot the whole way — most walkers take a good few hours up and less coming down. No technical climbing is needed, but it is not a stroll. Carry water and start in the morning.
Is McLeod Ganj crowded?
The Mall and the temple complex get busy, especially on weekends and through the summer. Bhagsu Falls and the lower Triund trail fill up with day-trippers by late morning. Dharamkot and the upper trail past it stay noticeably quieter, even on a busy weekend.
Photographs by Wikimedia Commons contributors (CC0, CC BY, CC BY-SA), resized; each picture is credited on its own page.