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Namgyal Monastery, the Dalai Lama's temple complex in McLeod Ganj
Himachal Pradesh⛰ 1,457 m5 itineraries

Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj

Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj at 1457 m: the Dalai Lama's temple, the Triund climb, when to go, and copyable itineraries for two days to a week.

Itineraries you can copy

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Dharamshala is the district town; McLeod Ganj, a short drive up the hill, is where almost everyone actually stays. The two run together in practice — a single taxi ride connects them — but the guide below treats McLeod Ganj as the base, since that is where the temple, the cafés and the Triund trailhead are.

The town works on two different clocks. There is the Tibetan settlement: monks in maroon at the Tsuglagkhang complex, the smell of incense and momos on the same street, prayer flags over the Mall, the workshops at Norbulingka Institute down in Sidhpur. And there is the trekking town: cheap gear rental, backpacker cafés, and a trail up to Triund that runs through Dharamkot. It fills with day-trippers by mid-morning. By golden hour it empties out, right when the Dhauladhar range turns the colour that gets sold as postcards below. Neither version of the town is the "real" one.

Beyond the two towns: Bhagsu Falls and the viewpoint at Naddi, a short drive out; and further afield, a day trip apiece to Kangra Fort, the largest fort in the Himalayas, and Chamunda Devi Mandir, one of the region's most visited Shakti temples.

Places worth the drive

Deden Tsuglakhang temple hall at Norbulingka Institute
Norbulingka Institute
Norbulingka Institute in Sidhpur trains artists in Tibetan thangka painting and woodcarving, with gardens and a temple, a short drive from McLeod Ganj.
Alpine valley view from Naddi
Naddi
Naddi sits at 2,000 m above McLeod Ganj, a short drive up, known for its open valley viewpoint over the Dhauladhar range and a quieter pace than the town below.
McLeod Ganj town seen from above
McLeod Ganj
McLeod Ganj is the hill town above Dharamshala, home to the Dalai Lama's temple, the Mall, and the trailhead for Triund. Free guide on HimLocal.
Kangra Fort on its hillock between two rivers
Kangra Fort
Kangra Fort sits on a hillock between two rivers, the largest and oldest fort in the Himalayas, with mentions in Indian mythology and history.
Mustard fields and shrines in upper Dharamkot
Dharamkot
Dharamkot sits above McLeod Ganj on the road to Triund — a quieter alternative for cafés, valley views, a slower pace, and a good stopover on the way up.
Dal Lake near Dharamshala, ringed by deodar trees
Dal Lake
Dal Lake sits at 1,775 m near Naddi, ringed by deodar trees with a small shrine on its bank — a quiet, short stop above McLeod Ganj, worth pairing with Naddi.
Bhagsu waterfall near McLeod Ganj
Bhagsu Falls
Bhagsu Falls sits a short drive from McLeod Ganj, reached on foot through Bhagsu village. A thirty-foot drop, cafés nearby, best before mid-morning.
Church of Saint John in the Wilderness near Dharamshala
Church of Saint John in the Wilderness
A neo-Gothic church from 1852 on the road to McLeod Ganj, known for its Belgian stained glass and the grave of a Viceroy of India in its yard.
Namgyal Monastery, the Dalai Lama's temple complex
The Dalai Lama's temple (Tsuglagkhang complex)
The Tsuglagkhang complex in McLeod Ganj — the Dalai Lama's residence and Namgyal Monastery, the largest Tibetan temple outside Tibet. Free entry.
Chamunda Devi Mandir near Dharamshala
Chamunda Devi Mandir
Chamunda Devi Mandir sits a drive from McLeod Ganj, one of Himachal's five major Shakti temples by local tradition, built about 400 years ago.
The Dhauladhar range seen from Triund
Triund
Triund is a ridge above McLeod Ganj, reached by a steady climb of about 9 km. Four to five hours up, three back down, with Dhauladhar views.

The places a Dharamshala day reaches, with the road time from town. Each opens on the map with its plans and pages beside it.

Before you go

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Questions people ask

Do I stay in Dharamshala or McLeod Ganj?

McLeod Ganj, for almost everyone — it's where the temple, the cafés, the Triund trailhead and most of the guesthouses are. Dharamshala town, a short drive downhill, is the district headquarters, with more government offices than reasons for a visitor to stay overnight there.

How hard is the Triund trek?

It's a real, steady climb from McLeod Ganj on foot the whole way — most walkers take a good few hours up and less coming down. No technical climbing is needed, but it is not a stroll. Carry water and start in the morning.

Is McLeod Ganj crowded?

The Mall and the temple complex get busy, especially on weekends and through the summer. Bhagsu Falls and the lower Triund trail fill up with day-trippers by late morning. Dharamkot and the upper trail past it stay noticeably quieter, even on a busy weekend.

Photographs by Wikimedia Commons contributors (CC0, CC BY, CC BY-SA), resized; each picture is credited on its own page.