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Church of Saint John in the Wilderness near Dharamshala
temple12 min from Dharamshala

Church of Saint John in the Wilderness

A neo-Gothic church from 1852 on the road to McLeod Ganj, known for its Belgian stained glass and the grave of a Viceroy of India in its yard.

What it is

A neo-Gothic Protestant church from 1852, set among deodar trees on the road between McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala town, at a spot called Forsyth Ganj. Its Belgian stained-glass windows were a gift from Lady Elgin, and its churchyard holds the grave of her husband, a Viceroy of India who died on a journey through the mountains in 1863.

Getting there

A short drive down from McLeod Ganj towards Dharamshala town — most visitors stop here on the way to or from Norbulingka Institute, which sits a little further along the same road.

The visit

The church survived the 1905 Kangra earthquake, which killed thousands and flattened most buildings in McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala, though its spire and bell tower came down. A new bell, cast in England in 1915, hangs in the compound in their place. Inside, the stained glass and the plain stone nave are little changed from 1852. The churchyard, shaded by deodars, holds Lord Elgin's grave along with other graves from the same colonial-era hill station.

When to go

Any time of year — the site is outdoors but the church itself is a short, roofed visit regardless of weather. The deodar shade makes it a pleasant stop even in the hotter months before the monsoon.

Around it

Norbulingka Institute is a short drive further along the same road. McLeod Ganj and the Dalai Lama's temple are a short drive back up the hill.

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Questions people ask

Who is buried at St John's Church?

Lord Elgin, Viceroy of India, who died in 1863 on a journey between Kullu and Lahaul and was brought here for burial. His grave sits in the churchyard among deodar trees, a short walk from the church door itself, alongside other graves from the same hill-station era.

Is St John's Church still an active church?

Yes, under the Diocese of Amritsar, with a presbyter in charge and regular services. Visitors are welcome outside service times to look at the stained glass and walk the churchyard, and the setting among deodar trees makes it a pleasant stop even for a short visit.

How do I get to St John's Church from McLeod Ganj?

A short drive down the road towards Dharamshala, at Forsyth Ganj — most visitors combine it with a stop at Norbulingka Institute or on the way back from the Dharamshala side of the valley, since both sit on the same stretch of road.