
Keylong and the Lahaul valley
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Keylong — also spelled Kyelang — is the headquarters of Lahaul and Spiti, Himachal's largest and least populous district, on the banks of the Bhaga river a few kilometres from where the Chandra and Bhaga valleys meet. Until the Atal Tunnel opened in 2020, the only road here crossed Rohtang Pass and shut for six months a year. Now the drive from Manali runs in under two hours, in any season, and Lahaul has gone from a place people reached to a place people pass through on the way to Ladakh — worth stopping for on its own.
The valley's monasteries are the reason to slow down. Shashur Monastery sits a short walk from Keylong's own bazaar. Across the river, Kardang was once Lahaul's capital and still holds its most important Drukpa Kagyu monastery. Further along the same road, near Gondhla Fort, sits Guru Ghantal Monastery, with a history local tradition traces back to Padmasambhava. Tayul Monastery, closer to town, rounds out the valley's five monasteries worth the drive.
Further up the highway, Sissu and its waterfall, Jispa and Darcha are the villages travellers heading towards Baralacha La and Ladakh stop at overnight — each a plausible day trip from Keylong on its own, or a stage on the way further north.
Photos: Timothy A. Gonsalves (CC BY-SA 4.0) · In Transit (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Timothy Gonsalves (CC BY-SA 4.0) — via Wikimedia Commons, resized.
Places worth the drive
On the map
Open the Keylong map →The places a Keylong day reaches, with the road time from town. Each opens on the map with its plans and pages beside it.
Before you go
All articles →Questions people ask
Is Keylong open year-round now?
Yes — since the Atal Tunnel opened in 2020, Keylong is reachable from Manali in under two hours in any season, though roads further north towards Baralacha La and Ladakh still close for the winter months, usually from late autumn to late spring.
How many days do you need in Keylong?
Two days covers the monasteries on both sides of the river — Shashur, Kardang, Tayul and Guru Ghantal — plus Gondhla Fort. A third day reaches Sissu, Jispa and Darcha further up the valley, each a plausible stop worth its own visit.
Do I need a permit to visit Keylong or Lahaul?
No — the Lahaul valley itself, including Keylong, Sissu, Jispa and Darcha, needs no permit for Indian visitors at all. Inner Line Permit rules apply only to specific border areas of Spiti, well beyond what this guide covers or recommends visiting.
Photographs by Wikimedia Commons contributors (CC0, CC BY, CC BY-SA), resized; each picture is credited on its own page.