
Gondhla — the seven-storey tower fort of the Thakurs of Lahaul
What it is
Gondhla is a village in Lahaul at 3,160 m, about 18 km before Keylong on the road from Manali. It is known for two things: the Guru Ghantal monastery and the fort. By our routing the fort is 29 min from Keylong and 76 min from Manali. In earlier times the village was the seat of the Thakurs of Gondhla, who ruled the valley of the Chandra river in Lahaul on behalf of the Rajas of Kullu.
Photos: In Transit (CC BY-SA 4.0) · In Transit (CC BY-SA 4.0) — via Wikimedia Commons, resized.
The fort
The fort is a seven-storey tower, built in the Kathkuni style of Pahari building, with alternating layers of stone and timber. It is the residence of the Thakurs of Gondhla, who were the viceroys of the Kullu rajas in the Tinan valley, the old name for the valley of the Chandra from Khoksar to Tandi, where the Chandra and Bhaga meet.
Sources differ on the date. According to some, Raja Man Singh of Kullu, who ruled from 1688 to 1719, built it around 1700 after he married the daughter of the Thakur. M. S. Randhawa noted that local tradition said it was built much earlier by Thakur Rattan Pal, who was believed to have come from Bir in Kangra. Randhawa also noted that the cedar in it was brought from the forest of Dhungri in Manali, over the Rohtang Pass.
Between 1929 and 1932 the Russian artist Nicholas Roerich spent summers in Lahaul, and painted the fort among other subjects. Today the fort is in disuse and keeps old weapons, furniture and many holy objects, such as thangkas, scriptures and the family deities of the Thakurs.
The monastery beside it
The Guru Ghantal monastery is in the same village. It is said to have been founded by Padmasambhava in the 8th century.
Getting there
The road from Manali now goes through the Atal Tunnel, which has no permit and is open in every month; the Rohtang road is a separate matter, see the Rohtang permit. For the seasons, read when to visit Keylong.
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Questions people ask
Where is Gondhla Fort?
In the village of Gondhla in Lahaul, at 3,160 m, about 18 km before Keylong on the road from Manali. By our routing it is 29 min from Keylong and 76 min from Manali. The Guru Ghantal monastery stands in the same village.
Who built Gondhla Fort?
Some sources say Raja Man Singh of Kullu built it around 1700, after marrying the daughter of Gondhla's Thakur. Local tradition, noted by M. S. Randhawa, says Thakur Rattan Pal built it much earlier. The Thakurs were viceroys of the Kullu rajas over the Chandra valley, called Tinan.
Can you go inside Gondhla Fort?
We have found no published visiting rule. The tower is the residence of the Thakurs of Gondhla and Wikipedia says the fort is now in disuse, holding old weapons, furniture, thangkas, scriptures and family deities. Ask in the village, with respect, before you try to enter.





