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Stone temple spires of old Bilaspur standing out of the low water of Gobind Sagar
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Photo: Ms Sarah Welch · CC0
temple3 min from Bilaspur

Gobind Sagar and the Ranganatha temples of old Bilaspur

Gobind Sagar, the Bhakra Dam's lake, drowned old Bilaspur and its temples. When the water falls their spires come back out, 3 min from the new town.

A lake over a town

Gobind Sagar is the reservoir behind the Bhakra Dam on the Sutlej, named for Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh Guru. Work on the dam began in 1955 under Harvey Slocum, a dam-builder from America, and finished in 1962; it stands 226 m high. The water filled the valley for 56 km, nearly 3 km across, and 371 villages went under it. One of them was the old town of Bilaspur, capital of the hill state of Kahlur, with its temples.

The new town was built upslope of the old. From its edge the lake below looks like any other, until the water drops.

The temples that come back

The Ranganatha temples were the heart of the old town, a group of stone shrines on the bank of the river. The lake is completely full in October and November and they are under it. As the level falls through the dry months, their spires stand out of the water again. The picture at the top was taken on 22 March.

From the new town it is about 1 km and 3 min to the shore below them. Look from the bank; the lake bed the water has just left is no place to walk.

On the water

Gobind Sagar has been a refuge for water birds since 1962, and fishing is common on it. From August to January, when the level allows, the state's water sports complex at Luhnu Ground in Bilaspur runs kayaking, rowing, canoeing, swimming and water-skiing, with courses at three levels. In October and November regattas are held on the lake.

Around it

The Shri Lakshmi Narayan Mandir in the new town is a minute away. Shri Naina Devi Ji looks down on the lake from its hilltop, 81 min by road. The one-day plan puts both together.

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Questions people ask

What is under Gobind Sagar at Bilaspur?

The old town of Bilaspur, capital of the hill state of Kahlur, and its temples, including the Ranganatha group. The lake was made by the Bhakra Dam, built from 1955 to 1962, and 371 villages went under its water. The new town was built upslope of the old one.

When can you see the submerged temples?

When the water is low. The lake is completely full in October and November and the temples are under it then. As the level falls through the dry months the spires come back out; the picture here was taken on 22 March. From the new town it is about 1 km and 3 min.

Can you do water sports on Gobind Sagar?

Yes, from August to January, when the water is high enough. The state's water sports complex at Luhnu Ground in Bilaspur runs swimming, kayaking, rowing, canoeing and water-skiing, with courses at three levels. In October and November regattas are held on the lake.