Raghunath Temple, Kullu

What it is

The temple of Raghunath — Ram, in the valley's name for him — above the bazaar in the old Sultanpur quarter of Kullu town, and the seat of the deity who rules the valley. The story the valley tells: in the seventeenth century Raja Jagat Singh, under a curse, was told that only the idol of Ram from Ayodhya could lift it; the idol was brought, installed on the throne, and the raja made himself its regent. From then Raghunath was the kingdom's ruler, and every village in the valley — each with its own deity — owed him a visit. They still pay it: at Dussehra in October the deities are carried down to the Dhalpur ground below the town to attend him, which is the whole of that festival.

The building is modest for its importance: a courtyard, a sanctum, a priesthood and a daily ritual, and a view over the town and the river from the terrace.

Getting there

About 38 km and roughly 49 min from the Manali bus stand down the valley to Kullu, then a short climb on foot through the old town above the bazaar. Buses from Manali every few minutes; a taxi in under an hour, with the option of going on to the stone temple at Bajaura below the town. The Kullu day trip starts here.

When to go

Any morning, for the temple quiet and in use. The opening day of Kullu Dussehra in October for the sight of it in its element. The deity brought down to the ground in a chariot pulled by ropes and by the crowd, the village deities in attendance, the bands playing — a crush, and the moment. The date follows the lunar calendar; the district administration announces it.

Manners

Shoes off at the courtyard, covered shoulders, no photographs of the idol or the sanctum, and ask before photographing anyone at prayer. This is the valley's ruling deity to the people who keep the temple; a visitor is welcome and a visitor is a guest.

Around it

The bazaar below, and the shawl weavers' co-operatives where the Kullu shawl is bought at the weavers' price. The Dhalpur ground where the festival happens. The carved stone temple at Bajaura a short way down the highway. Naggar Castle up the left bank, the seat of the rajas before Kullu, on the way back to Manali. The temples and heritage plan has the valley's older layer; the Hadimba temple in Manali is the goddess the town keeps.

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Day plan · Slow travelTemples & heritage

Kullu from Manali — the district town, its temples and the river, in a day

A day in Kullu from Manali, 40 km down the valley: the Raghunath temple above the bazaar, the Dhalpur ground, the shawl weavers, the stone temple at Bajaura.

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