Naggar and the left bank — two days below Manali

The left bank of the Beas below Manali is the valley's older, quieter side. The road runs through Jagatsukh and Naggar rather than along the highway, past orchards rather than hotels, to a castle and its temples, a painter's estate, and a dhaba village up a side valley where the whole district goes for lunch. Most people see it in an afternoon from Manali. It is better as a night.

This plan sleeps at Naggar — under the castle, among the orchards — and takes the two days slowly: the castle, the temples and the Roerich gallery on the first; Jana Falls for lunch and one temple walk on the second, ending back in Manali by evening.

Who this is for

Couples and older travellers who like old buildings and quiet; a second Manali trip; anyone who found the Solang road a queue and wants the other side of the valley. Not for a first visit with two days in total — that needs the town and one drive out.

Day by day

Getting there

Naggar is about 19 km and half an hour from the Manali bus stand on the left-bank road; a taxi for the two days is the sensible way, since the Jana road is narrow and buses beyond Naggar are rare. Coming from the south, buses on the highway stop at Patlikuhl, from where a shared taxi climbs to Naggar — you can start here without going up to Manali first.

Where to stay

At Naggar: guesthouses among the orchards below the castle, and the castle's own heritage rooms if they have space. Quieter and older than anything in Manali, with the valley in the window. Our stays page lists the ones we know, with what they cost this season.

Know before you go

• Do the castle first and walk up to the Roerich gallery after — it is a downhill loop through the village on the way back, and it ends at lunch.
• Naggar Castle's ticket is small; the balconies are the point and the rooms are a hotel.
• At Jana, order the siddu and the trout, and ask for the local sour — each dhaba has its own.
• The Jana road is narrow and slow; a weekday lunch is the calm one. Weekends bring Kullu.
• The Gaurishankar walk is a village path — shoes with grip, water, and it holds ice in the shade in winter.
• Cash at Jana and in the Naggar lane; the machines drop with the power.

If plans change

If you want the bigger temple outing: Bijli Mahadev above Kullu is a climb and a half day; the Kullu guide has it.

If it rains: the castle and the gallery are under roofs; keep them, and swap Jana for a long lunch in Naggar.

On the way back up to Manali: Vashisht for the hot springs is on the same bank and makes the evening.

Places on this route

Naggar Castle

fort · 31 min from Manali

Jana Falls

waterfall · 53 min from Manali

Tripura Sundari Temple, Naggar

temple · 31 min from Manali

Gaurishankar temple walk, Dasal

temple · 24 min from Manali

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