Tsomgo Lake (Changu) — the high glacial lake on the Nathu La road
What it is
Tsomgo Lake, also spelled Tsongmo and called Changu or Changgu Lake, is a glacial lake at 3,753 m on the road from Gangtok to Nathu La. In Sikkimese, "tso" means lake and "mgo" means head, so the name is read as the source of the lake. Wikipedia says the lake is revered, and that monks once read its changing colours as signs.
Photos: Kuldeepburjbhalaike (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Vijayanand7 (CC BY-SA 4.0) — via Wikimedia Commons, resized.
The lake
The lake is an oval, about 24 hectares in area, with a longest side of 836 m and a greatest reported depth of 15 m. Steep slopes close it in on all sides. It freezes in winter, sometimes into May, and in summer the snow cover melts and feeds it. Wikipedia lists rhododendrons, primulas, blue and yellow poppies and irises on the shore once the winter ends in mid-May, and Brahminy ducks and red panda in the area. A small Shiva temple stands on the bank. The lake is the gathering place of the jhakri faith healers on Guru Purnima.
A restricted area
The road beyond Gangtok runs through a restricted border zone. Wikipedia says Indian visitors must obtain permits. Foreign nationals need a special permit. We have no verified procedure, so check the current rule with Sikkim Tourism or your hotel in Gangtok before you set out, and expect the permit to name your vehicle and date.
Getting there
By road from Gangtok, along the route to Nathu La, beside the Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary; our measured road time is in the quick facts. The altitude matters: Wikipedia gives annual precipitation of about 1,183 mm and temperatures from 0 to 25 °C, so carry warm layers even in summer.
Combine it with
The Nathu La day pairs the lake with the pass, and the one-day town plan is the lower-altitude alternative. Read when to visit Gangtok and things to do in Gangtok.
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Questions people ask
What is Tsomgo Lake?
A glacial lake at 3,753 m on the Gangtok–Nathu La road, also spelled Tsongmo and called Changu or Changgu Lake. Wikipedia says it is about 24 hectares, up to 15 metres deep, frozen in winter, and held in reverence by local people, who once read its changing colours. A small Shiva temple stands on its bank.
Do you need a permit for Tsomgo Lake?
Wikipedia says the lake lies in a restricted area, so Indian visitors need permits and foreign nationals need a special permit. Rules and who may go change, so confirm the current requirement and the arranging office with Sikkim Tourism or your hotel in Gangtok before you set out. We have no verified permit procedure.
When does Tsomgo Lake freeze?
Wikipedia says it freezes through the winter and the ice can last until May. The shoreline blooms with rhododendron, primula and poppies after the winter ends in mid-May. Snow can close the high road, so ask locally about the road before you leave Gangtok.