Gulaba
What it is
The meadow where the Rohtang road climbs out of the forest: open slopes, the first real view back down the valley, a checkpost, and a line of stalls hiring snowsuits and sledges. In season it is the first stop on the way to the pass; in winter, when the pass is shut and the road is cleared only this far, it is the snow day itself. The trek to Bhrigu Lake leaves from here.
Photos: Biswarup Ganguly (CC BY 3.0) — via Wikimedia Commons, resized.
Getting there
About 19 km and roughly 35 min from the bus stand, up the Rohtang road past Kothi. The tunnel road branches off below at Palchan, so Gulaba is on the pass road only. Taxis run it as a half day in winter and as the first stop of the Rohtang day in season; there is no bus.
When to go
December to March for snow on the meadow, when the pass is shut and this is where the plough stops. May to November as the gateway to the pass, and the place to turn round if you have no permit. Early either way — the meadow is empty at eight and a car park by eleven.
The checkpost
Permits for the pass are checked here; cars without one turn round. The tunnel to Sissu needs no permit and branches off lower down, which is the answer for anyone who arrives without one. Snowsuits, boots and sledges are hired at the roadside by the day; the price moves with the crowd.
Around it
Kothi and its gorge are on the road below; Marhi and the pass are above in season. The Bhrigu Lake trek climbs from the meadow to the ridge. Our treks page has the route; the Solang meadow is on the other road for the rest of the day.
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Questions people ask
What is Gulaba known for?
Three things. It is where the Rohtang road leaves the forest for open meadow, so it is the first big view. It is where the permit checkpost stands, so it is as far as you get without one. And in winter, when the pass is shut, it is where Manali's snow day happens. The Bhrigu Lake trek starts here.
How far is Gulaba from Manali?
About 19 km and roughly 35 min by road, up past Kothi on the Rohtang road; the tunnel road branches off below it at Palchan, so Gulaba is on the pass road only. Taxis run it as a half day in winter and as the first stop of the Rohtang day in season. There is no bus.
Is Gulaba a good place for snow?
In December to March, yes — it is the nearest reliable snow on the Manali side, on open meadow rather than road, with sledges and snowsuits for hire at the roadside. When the pass is shut and the road is cleared only this far, this is where the snow day ends. In a thin winter the snow sits at the top.
Can you go beyond Gulaba without a Rohtang permit?
No; the checkpost at Gulaba is where permits are checked, and cars without one turn round here. In winter the question does not arise, since the road is closed above it anyway. The tunnel road, which branches off lower down at Palchan, needs no permit and is the way to Sissu in every month.