Koksar

What it is

The first village of Lahaul on the old road over the pass. A cluster of houses and dhabas on the Chandra where the hairpins down from Rohtang reach the river, and for generations the checkpost and tea stop of every journey to Leh and Spiti. It is a junction rather than a place. Beyond it the road up the Chandra runs to Gondhla, Keylong and on to Leh; across the river the road to Kunzum and Spiti begins; back towards Manali the tunnel road and the pass road become one.

Since the tunnel, most traffic reaches Koksar from below, through Sissu, and the pass road above it is a summer detour. The dhabas are still where everyone stops.

Getting there

About 40 km and roughly 58 min from the Manali bus stand through the Atal Tunnel, past Sissu and up the Chandra to the junction; no permit in any month. In season the old road over the pass arrives here from above, with the permit that road needs. The Sissu and Lahaul overnight stops here for tea on its second morning.

What it is for

Tea, a plate, and the view: up the Chandra to the pass, down it to Sissu, and across it to the bare slopes that are Lahaul. A walk to the river. The sense, standing at the junction, of three roads to three countries. In season the road to Chandratal leaves from near here, and the Spiti and Leh traffic sorts itself at the dhabas.

When to go

May to June and September to October for open roads and a clear sky. The tunnel keeps the village reachable all year, with the road above Solang closed for a morning after heavy snow; in winter the dhabas are mostly shut and the valley is white. July and August bring slides that close the roads for hours.

Around it

Gondhla and its tower on up the valley; Sissu below; the pass above in season; Chandratal across the river, which is a trip of its own. The stopover plan makes Koksar the last stop before the roads divide.

Plans that include this

All 2 plans that stop here →

1 night · 2 days · BikersRoad trip

Manali as a stopover — one night before the road to Leh or Spiti

One night in Manali before the road to Leh or Spiti: sleep low at 2,050 m, sort fuel and cash, a last hot bath, then out through the tunnel to Sissu.

Best Jun–Sep

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2 nights · 3 days · FriendsRoad trip

Manali to Sissu and Lahaul — three days with a night across the ridge

Three days from Manali with two nights at Sissu: the tunnel and the meadow on the way, the Chandra valley to Koksar and Gondhla's tower house, the gorge home.

Best May–Jun · Sep–Oct

See the plan →