Friendship Peak

About this departure

Friendship Peak is one of the best first summits in the Indian Himalaya: close to Manali, a clear route, and a real mountaineering day at the top — snow slopes and a summit ridge on crampons, ice axe and rope. The walk-in follows the Beas Kund trail; base camp sits at Lady Leg, below the glacier. The days in between are for acclimatising and learning the skills the summit day needs.

Day-by-day itinerary

1. Days 1–2 — The walk-in
   From the road-head through forest and meadows to the high pastures — easy days that start the acclimatisation.
2. Days 3–4 — Base camp and skills
   Base camp is set; the team practises crampons, ice axe, rope and self-arrest on nearby slopes.
3. Day 5 — Higher camp
   Loads go up to the higher camp; the team sleeps high.
4. Summit day — The top
   An alpine start in the dark, the summit around mid-morning, and down before the snow softens.
5. Buffer — Weather days
   Spare days held for weather — the mountain decides when.
6. Last day — Walk-out
   Back down the valley and the drive to Manali.

What's included

• Expedition leader and climbing guides
• Permits the peak needs, arranged by us
• Base and high-camp tents, kitchen, all meals
• Technical group gear: ropes, anchors, fixed lines
• Porters / mules for camp loads
• First-aid, oxygen and a rescue plan
• Transport Manali to the road-head and back

Not included

• Travel to Manali
• Personal climbing gear (can be hired)
• Climbing and medical insurance
• Anything not listed as included

What to pack

• Stiff-soled boots that take crampons (B2/B3 rated)
• Down jacket plus a windproof outer shell
• Thermal base layers and fleece mid-layer
• Waterproof gloves plus a thin liner pair
• UV-rated sunglasses (category 3–4) and high-SPF sunscreen
• Gaiters and two pairs of wool socks
• Headtorch with spare batteries
• Insulated water bottle (a bladder hose freezes)
• Personal medication and any prescribed altitude medicine