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A row of carved stone temple blocks under a small shelter on a paved terrace among trees
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Photo: BhuyanBhaskar · CC0
ruins32 min from Guwahati

Madan Kamdev — the ruined Pala-period temples at Baihata Chariali

Madan Kamdev, the 9th–10th century temple ruins at Baihata Chariali about 30 km from Guwahati: the Pala-period carvings, the 1977 excavations and the drive.

What it is

Madan Kamdev is an archaeological site at Baihata Chariali, about 27 km and 32 minutes from Guwahati on our routing. The ruins date to the 9th and 10th century and, by Wikipedia's account, to the Pala dynasty. They are scattered over about 500 m in a secluded place.

What you see

Carved stones of medieval temples lie among the trees. The carvings that stand out show Surya, Ganesha and Vidyadharas, and Uma and Maheshwar in an embrace.

How it was found

Archaeologists disagree about who built the temples. Wikipedia says an 1855 report of the Asiatic Society of Bengal may have described these ruins, and that no one excavated for more than a quarter of a century after an article in the 1940s. During that time villagers and hunters took statues away. In 1977 the state's Archaeological Directorate took the site in hand and found ruins of 12 more temples around the main one.

Combine it with

The two days with Madan Kamdev and Sualkuchi puts the ruins on day two with the weaving town of Sualkuchi. Read how to reach Guwahati.

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Questions people ask

What is Madan Kamdev?

An archaeological site at Baihata Chariali in Kamrup, Assam, about 30 km from Guwahati by Wikipedia's figure, where the ruins of temples of the 9th–10th century lie scattered across about 500 m. Wikipedia dates the ruins to the Pala dynasty. The carvings that stand out show Surya, Ganesha and Vidyadharas, and Uma and Maheshwar embracing.

Who excavated Madan Kamdev?

In 1977 the state's Archaeological Directorate took over the site, and its team under Dr. Pradeep Sharma began to dig out the statues. Besides the main temple they found ruins of 12 more temples. Before that, villagers and hunters had carried many statues away, and an 1855 report may already have described 15 temples near the Silsako bridge.

How far is it from Guwahati?

About 27 km and 32 minutes by road on our routing from the centre of Guwahati, and Wikipedia says about 30 km. It lies off the road to the north-east, in a quiet spot. We have no verified opening hours or entry rules, so ask locally before you go and keep to the marked paths.